Kingfisher Airlines/Air Deccan started flights to Shimla from Delhi shortly before we left India, but we didn’t hear very many good things about the flight. Unreliable schedule, and no (or vastly inadequate) facilities for passengers in the Shimla airport, making hours-long flight delays unbearable.
We recommend taking the Shatabdi Express train from Delhi to Kalka, in the Executive Chair Car (about $50 round-trip); and then the Deluxe Rail Car (Wildflower Hall or the Oberoi’s other property in Shimla, the Cecil, can book this one for you), which is a private, one car train, you can take on the scenic, narrow-guage journey from Kalka to Shimla (about $400 round-trip; each time, we were a party of four each time, sharing the cost at $50 per person each way). For an additional charge, you can have the Kalka-Shimla and Shimla-Kalka journeys catered. The contrast between the rather shabby, though private, train and the fine bone china and silver, served by attentive, highly-trained staff is one of many metaphors for the range of experiences and circumstances you’ll find throughout India.
Though a hill station – a retreat from the sweltering summer weather; in fact during the British Raj, Shimla was the capital for half the year – we enjoyed visiting in the off-season (December to March), when you’re more likely to be able to have the place to yourself and when prices are at their lowest.
Like Wildflower Hall, the Vrinda offers a rare, true escape from the hassles and frustrations of India. The exquisitely-appointed 16-passenger catamaran offers every convenience you would expect from a veritable luxury experience – one of the few times in our experience when we didn’t feel let down by the extremely high tariff (about $700 per night). Gourmet meals and attentive, though not obsequious, staff make for a memorable journey.
They’ve thought of everything. In order to maneuver through the narrow backwater canals, you’ll transfer during the day to a very comfortable rice boat, where you’ll be greeted with cold, jasmine-scented towels and a refreshing beverage each time you step on board. There are interesting, guided excursions for a few hours each day, and then you take the rice boat back to the Vrinda. Fabulous.
Ethereal. Lovely property. Staff was just too present for my taste. Great, healthy meals and otherwise a very relaxing time. To get there, take the Shatabdi Express Executive Chair Car from Delhi to Haridwar. It’s about a one-hour drive up the winding mountain road. We think the first of the Elephanta Suite stories is set at Ananda.
Neemrana Non-Hotel Hotels
We loved visiting properties associated with this chain, started by an Indian-French couple whose aim has been to help preserve and promote Indian as well as European culture. They have lovingly restored several centuries-old, abandoned properties, turning them into attractive, authentic places to stay. Great meals, great service, no TVs. Best value, hands down. Pataudi Palace is about a 1.5-hours’ drive from New Delhi. Neemrana Fort-Palace takes about 2.5 to 3 hours to reach by car.
We loved visiting properties associated with this chain, started by an Indian-French couple whose aim has been to help preserve and promote Indian as well as European culture. They have lovingly restored several centuries-old, abandoned properties, turning them into attractive, authentic places to stay. Great meals, great service, no TVs. Best value, hands down. Pataudi Palace is about a 1.5-hours’ drive from New Delhi. Neemrana Fort-Palace takes about 2.5 to 3 hours to reach by car.
We didn’t stay at the Taj Lake Palace when we visited Udaipur, but we wish we had. The Oberoi Udaivilas was beautiful. The service, sadly, was disappointing in our opinion. Maybe it was a one-off, but we had heard similar complaints from others.
Windamere Hotel, Darjeeling
We heard many good things about this British Raj-era heritage property and regret we didn’t make the trip when we lived in India. A relaxing getaway in perhaps India’s best-known tea-growing area.
Windamere Hotel, Darjeeling
We heard many good things about this British Raj-era heritage property and regret we didn’t make the trip when we lived in India. A relaxing getaway in perhaps India’s best-known tea-growing area.
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