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the entrance gate, before entering the gravel walkway that leads to Highclere
Castle, was an invitation from The Today
Show for Americans visiting the home made famous by the Downton Abbey television series to get
in touch. I gave it a thought and decided I wasn't interested. After all, what
would I say? Why was I - a black guy from Detroit - interested in Downton? Would they think I was
"taking the piss," putting them on?
As the palatial abode came into view, it
looked every bit as I expected it would from my earlier, virtual visits - from the outside at least. The
structure, designed by Charles Barry, the same architect responsible for the
iconic Houses of Parliament, in London, was remarkable, with its spires,
intricate stonework carvings and other details.
Inside, the home seemed smaller and much
less plush. The stone work, old books, paintings and tapestries on the ground
floor were impressive. But along the balustrades, on the second floor, there
was common-looking furniture, the surfaces of which resembled the faux wood
paneling popularly used in basements in the 1970s and 80s, placed as a barrier
between visitors and the railing. In the bedrooms, the silk wall coverings have
frayed, and other furnishings appeared worn, shabby. There were paperback books
stacked here and there - one, I noticed, was Tom Wolfe's A Man in Full.
The photographs, some including the Queen over the years, were in frames that
you might find at Target (or in my home). As a British friend reminded me, these estates are incredibly expensive to maintain.
Jackdaw's Castle |
It was the grounds to which I was most
attracted, in the end. Extensive lawns surround the stately home, and offer
quiet walks, during which one can encounter Jackdaw's Castle - a petite
structure with Corinthian columns, constructed in the 18th century, perched on
a small hill. You can also hear the medium-pitched baa of sheep, which are
plentiful in the outer perimeter of the estate. And there are various gardens,
one of which boasts an ancient aqueduct-looking structure as though from Roman
times. I soaked it all up for over an hour.
baa |
With two hours left before my train, I
walked back to the Today Show sign
and contacted the producer. What the heck? She told me where to meet, and I
began trying to prep myself for what I imagined might be an interview. Who are
the characters I most like? What is the
name of that maid who is Bates's wife? Why did I watch the show? At the
appointed time, there was a small group of perhaps 20 people assembled. I
watched them from a bit of a distance, not entirely sure I wanted to join. Nah.
I retreated to the pastoral grounds, treated myself to tea and began to reflect
on the day so far.
Planning your visit
The
castle is not open year-round. Check
out www.highclerecastle.co.uk for details. You can book your tickets online.
Just bring the printout confirmation, which contains a bar code that an
attendant will scan at the outer entrance gate.
From
London's Paddington Station, First Great Western offers service to Newbury
Station. The journey takes about 50 minutes. From Newbury, the taxi costs about
$20 each way and takes about 15 minutes to reach Highclere. John Burke,
reachable via +44 7900 648 008 or jburke040@hotmail.com is a safe, cheerful,
reliable and very helpful driver.
There are
ample dining and toilet facilities on the grounds of the estate. The tea rooms
in the basement of the house appear old and crusty. I opted for the outside tented
facility, which was more like what you would find at a state fair than on the
grounds of an elegant home. Here, and elsewhere, I thought that the Carnarvon
Family might take a page from the Vanderbilts' Asheville, NC Biltmore House, a
true first-class experience throughout.
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