Downton Revisited

Posted on the entrance gate, before entering the gravel walkway that leads to Highclere Castle, was an invitation from The Today Show for Americans visiting the home made famous by the Downton Abbey television series to get in touch. I gave it a thought and decided I wasn't interested. After all, what would I say? Why was I - a black guy from Detroit - interested in Downton? Would they think I was "taking the piss," putting them on?

   As the palatial abode came into view, it looked every bit as I expected it would from my earlier, virtual visits - from the outside at least. The structure, designed by Charles Barry, the same architect responsible for the iconic Houses of Parliament, in London, was remarkable, with its spires, intricate stonework carvings and other details.

  

  Inside, the home seemed smaller and much less plush. The stone work, old books, paintings and tapestries on the ground floor were impressive. But along the balustrades, on the second floor, there was common-looking furniture, the surfaces of which resembled the faux wood paneling popularly used in basements in the 1970s and 80s, placed as a barrier between visitors and the railing. In the bedrooms, the silk wall coverings have frayed, and other furnishings appeared worn, shabby. There were paperback books stacked here and there - one, I noticed, was Tom Wolfe's A Man in Full. The photographs, some including the Queen over the years, were in frames that you might find at Target (or in my home). As a British friend reminded me, these estates are incredibly expensive to maintain.

Jackdaw's Castle

   It was the grounds to which I was most attracted, in the end. Extensive lawns surround the stately home, and offer quiet walks, during which one can encounter Jackdaw's Castle - a petite structure with Corinthian columns, constructed in the 18th century, perched on a small hill. You can also hear the medium-pitched baa of sheep, which are plentiful in the outer perimeter of the estate. And there are various gardens, one of which boasts an ancient aqueduct-looking structure as though from Roman times. I soaked it all up for over an hour.

baa

   With two hours left before my train, I walked back to the Today Show sign and contacted the producer. What the heck? She told me where to meet, and I began trying to prep myself for what I imagined might be an interview. Who are the characters I most like?  What is the name of that maid who is Bates's wife? Why did I watch the show? At the appointed time, there was a small group of perhaps 20 people assembled. I watched them from a bit of a distance, not entirely sure I wanted to join. Nah. I retreated to the pastoral grounds, treated myself to tea and began to reflect on the day so far.

Planning your visit

The castle is not open year-round. Check out www.highclerecastle.co.uk for details. You can book your tickets online. Just bring the printout confirmation, which contains a bar code that an attendant will scan at the outer entrance gate.

From London's Paddington Station, First Great Western offers service to Newbury Station. The journey takes about 50 minutes. From Newbury, the taxi costs about $20 each way and takes about 15 minutes to reach Highclere. John Burke, reachable via +44 7900 648 008 or jburke040@hotmail.com is a safe, cheerful, reliable and very helpful driver.

There are ample dining and toilet facilities on the grounds of the estate. The tea rooms in the basement of the house appear old and crusty. I opted for the outside tented facility, which was more like what you would find at a state fair than on the grounds of an elegant home. Here, and elsewhere, I thought that the Carnarvon Family might take a page from the Vanderbilts' Asheville, NC Biltmore House, a true first-class experience throughout.