The Oregon Shakespeare Festival, America’s largest repertory theater, is the reason we now make an annual pilgrimage to Ashland, though there are other reasons to visit – such as the crisp, cool summer weather; pastoral, almost picture-book vistas; and progressive spirit of the town and its people.
But the theater is truly world class and not to be missed. Under the leadership of Artistic Director Bill Rauch, the line-up of productions each year is inspired, creative and extraordinary.
Last year, we saw Hamlet, which was compelling and insightful like no other Hamlet we’ve seen. The actors handled the text in a way that made Shakespearean prose understandable even for a novice such as myself. And there were hip hop choreography, modern military fatigues and other surprising features woven in to make the play more exciting for all audiences and more accessible for younger patrons. What’s more, as is not uncommon now at OSF, there was a deaf actor, who signed his lines in concert with other actors who both spoke and signed, helping to unite us all. It worked.This year’s line-up was no less impressive and diverse. Moliere’s 17th century play The Imaginary Invalid was set in 1960s Paris, with costumes evoking the era, including its sartorial far-out, as in outer-space-like, reaches. Making the story über-relevant were references to “the public option” and other aspects of the contemporary health care debate in the United States.
Further information about the Oregon Shakespeare Festival is available at http://www.osfashland.org.
How to get there
Ashland, set in scenic Rogue Valley, is a quick 15-minute highway drive from the Medford, Oregon airport. Delta, United, and Frontier offer service between Medford and Salt Lake City, Seattle, San Francisco, Los Angeles, and Denver. If possible, avoid connecting through San Francisco, where, in our experience, weather and other factors often delay or cancel flights.
Where to Stay
Ashland Springs Hotel
212 East Main Street
Ashland, Oregon 97520
This is perhaps the most elegant and convenient place in Ashland to stay. The hotel is within two blocks of the theaters.
Yellow predominates in the bright, but not glaring, décor. The avian interest of the owners is also apparent throughout the hotel, nowhere more so than in its signature restaurant, Larks, which offers sophisticated comfort food in a relaxed but upscale setting.
I love breakfast and the hotel's continental spread (included in the room rate), featuring mini scones and cinnamon rolls, doesn't disappoint. Hard-boiled eggs, fresh fruit, homemade yoghurt with fresh, local marionberries, and oatmeal are also on offer, as are great Noble coffee and a selection of premium caffeinated and decaffeinated teas.
To learn more about the local area, book the walking tour offered through the hotel, for about $7 per person. This is a tour at your own pace, via an individual audio player. The circuit is about an hour and a half around the center of town and bucolic Lithia Park.
Larks Restaurant, in the historic Ashland Springs Hotel, offers a casually elegant atmosphere and a sophisticated take on comfort food. They do a fabulous cheese plate featuring an artisanal variety locally sourced from the Rogue Valley. Their fried chicken breast is a standard favorite. One of the highlights for dessert is a blueberry tart with homemade blueberry lavender ice cream.
Pasta Piatti
358 E. Main St.
Tel. 541-488-5493
Pasta Piatti was a new find for us this year. Don't let the casual décor fool you. This place has among the best Italian fare we've had anywhere. Service is friendly and attentive.
Grilla Bites
47 N. Main Street
(541) 488-0889
(541) 488-0889
Our regular place for lunch. Lots of vegetarian options, reliable wifi, near the theaters.
Noble Coffee46 East Main Street (541) 488-8811 ∙ 281 Fourth Street (541) 488-3288
Coffee doesn’t get better than this. They have a kiosk on Main Street, a block away from the theaters. But their larger location – a 15 to 20 minute walk away, in the railroad district – is worth a visit. Bare-bones décor; it’s all about the exceptional coffee.
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