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Tips for a Visit to Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City

Saigon, or Ho Chi Minh City?
Both. Ho Chi Minh City is the official name of the city previously officially known as Sai Gon, or Saigon, and it seems most locals continue to refer to their city as Sai Gon. I'm told by a reliable source that the central business district of the city is still officially called Sai Gon. It may be best, though, for visitors to err on the side of formality and refer to the city as Ho Chi Minh City.

Here's a link to a short article on the topic, which may be of interest:

https://www.tripsavvy.com/where-is-saigon-1458405

Visa requirements

Americans need a visa in order to enter Việt Nam, or Vietnam (the Vietnamese refer to their country as Việt Nam, but it seems the preferred way to write the name of their country in English is Vietnam. For more on this, check out: https://www.quora.com/Is-it-Vietnam-or-Viet-Nam).

E-visas and visas on arrival are options, as well as the old-fashioned way of obtaining a visa via one of Vietnam's embassies or consulates.

Americans may wish to consult the following sites for further details about entry requirements for Vietnam:

https://travel.state.gov/content/passports/en/country/vietnam.html

https://www.immigration.gov.vn/

https://vn.usembassy.gov/u-s-citizen-traveling-vietnam/


Do I need vaccinations?

It seems the main health concerns for travelers here are mosquito-borne ailments, including malaria and dengue, so travelers may wish to bring their favorite mosquito-repellent. However, here's a link to what the experts recommend in terms of vaccinations:


http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/destinations/traveler/none/vietnam

May I bring prescription medication with me?

Here's a link to comprehensive expert advice for Americans traveling to Vietnam, which seems to indicate no problem for bringing personal prescription medication to Vietnam:

https://travel.state.gov/content/passports/en/country/vietnam.html

What's the weather like?

It's usually hot and humid, tropical.  The rainy season is usually from May/June to November.

Getting to and around town

When you arrive at Tan Son Nhat Airport, it shouldn't be a problem getting a taxi from the taxi stand.  You should assume that the taxi will only take cash for payment, although many may accept credit and debit cards.  Best to get some cash from the ATM before you get in the taxi.  It shouldn't cost more than about VND 200,000, or about $10 to get from the airport to Districts 1, 2, or 3.

You might also try booking airport transfers and other local/ground transportation via your hotel.

In general, in terms of getting around HCMC I've been happy with Grab.

And among the more reliable taxi companies I've used here are  Vinasun and Mai Linh - both of which have apps.

What to do
  • Shop - Among my favorite brands here are Mekong QuiltsMarou chocolate (see below, where to eat), and Minh Long porcelain gifts; 
  • Visit a museum - There are many museums in HCMC worth visiting, maybe none more important than the War Remnants Museum.  Brace yourself, because the tragedy and horror of war on display is overwhelming, and I visited after they had removed the actual deformed fetuses preserved in jars and only showed photos of them and other awful reminders of the cost of war. 
  • See a show - You might want to catch an A&O acrobatic, cultural show at the beautiful Opera House, in the center of town.
Where to Eat 

There are many good restaurants, cafes, and bakeries around.  Here are some special favorites in Districts 1 and 2.

District 1:


Marou Chocolate - Artisanal chocolate, not to be missed. An exquisite blend of Vietnam, where the cacao is sourced, and the West, which inspired the chocolate-making technique Marou uses.

Ngoc Chau Garden - Comfortable (indoor, tables and chairs of the height and size that Westerners are accustomed to, and air conditioned) Vietnamese restaurant, offering  a wide assortment of delicious, filling dishes.  Soft shell crab, fried rice, and sauteed morning glory are among my spouse's and my favorites.  Centrally located, near the Bitexco Tower.

Vietnam House - Luxury Vietnamese restaurant near the Opera House.

Here are a couple favorite restaurants for Western dishes:

Pasteur Street Brewery - Cozy, relaxed comfort food pub, highlighting craft beer.

Chanh Bistro Rooftop - Delicious Western food, friendly service, comfortable, if a bit industrial design. Across from the Bitexco Tower.  The set menus are good value - there are a couple different set menus, though: one that is very good value and seems geared toward the portion sizes locals and I prefer, and one that is still good value if quite a bit pricier and that seems geared toward the portion sizes many Westerners might prefer.

District 2:

Although located across the river and a bit of a ways from D1, here are some favorite places that are worth a visit even if you'll be based in D1. If you'll be staying in D2, all the better to try these places out.

Sweet + Sour - Best bakery I know of in Vietnam, and maybe anywhere.  It's not just the buttery sweet aroma you encounter when you enter the shop, but the decor and all the baked goods are cheerful, beautiful, and appetizing.  Perhaps my most happy place in HCMC.  In addition to the mini- and regular-size cupcakes, there are mini-cakes, full cakes, wonderful little tartlets, cinnamon rolls, banana bread loaves, and many cookies and candies.  And there are espresso-based beverages, as well as champagne, to wash it all down with!  

Trois Gourmands - A good place for special occasions, and worth the visit to D2 even if staying in D1 or farther afield.  As the name suggests, this is a French restaurant whose owner/operators have a passion for food.  The restaurant is the main floor of a stately home on a relatively quiet lane in Thao Dien.  The presentation and taste of the food and wine my spouse and I ordered were pleasing.  Service was friendly, even sophisticated.  The cheese plate is very generous!  Prices are high, in my view, but all-around good value for the whole experience.

Gardenia - Especially if travelling with small kids, this is a great family spot with a playground, good food and drinks, and friendly service.  There's also seating away from the playground, for those who want a quieter space.  The menu features Italian cuisine, and includes Vietnamese dishes.

Where to stay

District 1, the center of town:


Hotel des Arts:  My favorite place to stay in HCMC.  Beautiful, Accor-managed boutique hotel with a lovely blend of Vietnamese and Western design.  Even if you don't stay here, the restaurant is worth a visit, if you're looking for Western comfort food in casually upscale surroundings, and the rooftop bar is renowned.

Caravelle - Where I stayed on my first visit to Ho Chi Minh City, in the late 2000s. Comfortable, reasonably-priced spot in the center of town, across from the Opera House, but the thing that stands out most for me is the perfection of the danishes here, at breakfast. Sublime.

Park Hyatt - Luxury, true five-star major-brand property in the center of town, and, like the Caravelle, across the street from the Opera House. Even if you decide not to stay here, afternoon or anytime tea is worth trying in the luxuriously cozy lobby.

Intercontinental Hotel - Tasteful, Asian inspired classically modern design. Good executive club - friendly staff, good food and drink, spacious rooms. If you don't stay here but want a delicious, reasonably priced Vietnamese lunch in comfortable surroundings, pop in for lunch in the lobby bar.


District 2, the 'burbs:

Riverside - If you're travelling with small kids, this is a great place to stay.  Good food at the on-site restaurant, a playground, pool, and daily housekeeping service, as well as a laundry room that guests can use, and a weight room help make this a comfortable place to stay for a family.

Villa Song - Haven't yet stayed here, but heard its beautiful and was going to be one of the places I checked out, but fell in love with Hotel des Arts and didn't want to stay elsewhere, until I traveled with my small kids, in which case Riverside was the better option, since Villa Song seems more geared toward couples.  

Farther afield

Some ideas for excursions/side-trips outside of Ho Chi Minh City:

Phu Quoc - Reminds me of Thailand's Phuket - resort island, beaches, relax.  The JW Marriott is luxurious and Alice in Wonder-ish, which may appeal to some.  There are also Accor properties on the island and properties not affiliated with an international brand.  Phu Quoc is a short flight away from Ho Chi Minh City.  

Con Dao - Six Senses - I've heard from reliable sources that this is the best resort in all of Vietnam.  I hope to find out, myself, one of these days.  It's a short flight away from Ho Chi Minh City.

Phan Thiet - Another resort town, this one's about a three-hour drive away from Ho Chi Minh City, I'm told.  I believe there's also train service to get you there and back.

Da Lat - Charming, French hill station, a short flight away from Ho Chi Minh City.  I've enjoyed staying at the cozy Dalat Palace Hotel, overlooking the lake in the center of town, and at the Ana Mandara, a comfortable, rustic property on the outskirts of town. 

Tour operators/travel agencies

Here are some tour operators/travel agencies that may be able to assist you in planning your visit to Vietnam and around:




Ninh Binh - Tam Coc

Often referred to as the inland Ha Long Bay, Tam Coc - a short drive from Ninh Binh - provides an opportunity for visitors to marvel at the imposing limestone karsts in about half the time that it takes to get from Hanoi to Ha Long Bay by car (Ninh Binh is under two hours by car from Hanoi).

After searching Trip Advisor, we booked at the Vancouver Hotel, a family-run establishment in Ninh Binh, rated #1.  The hotel's customer service executive, as his card reads, explained that the family just picked the name because it is easy for most people to say.  I asked again, thinking maybe he or one of his family members might have studied in or otherwise visited Vancouver, but no.  I thought better to leave it than to inquire further.

The establishment's entrance is down an alley, so easy to miss from the main road.  But once you step into the compact hotel, you see that it appears to have been recently, thoughtfully renovated (and perhaps repurposed, as the frame appears to be of a typical narrow Vietnamese home with several floors).  It is clean, bright, and orderly inside.  The wifi, included in the room rate and available throughout the hotel, worked fine.  The rooms were comfortable if a bit bland - a picture or two on the walls would add warmth.  The ceiling's crown moldings were beautiful, tasteful.

Vancouver Hotel
No 01/75 Luong Van Tuy
Ninh Binh
+84 030 3893270
thevancouverhotel@gmail.com
www.thevancouverhotel.com

For lunch, the hotel recommended Dat Set restaurant, which, we were told, is familiar with Western tourists and offers the delicious local specialty Com Chay, which turns out to be savory sheets of puffed rice, served hot, accompanying a bowl of lamb stew.  You break the rice sheets into smaller pieces and dip in the stew.  The restaurant was a very casual establishment, with ample flies and litter strewn about.  We were the only westerners.  The server seemed to barely understand English.  But she and the restaurant in general were friendly.

Dat Set restaurant
Pho 11 - P. Dong Thanh
0303 891 468
030 357 9222

After lunch, we set out on a tour of Tam Coc, which we had heard described as a sort of Disneyland attraction.  And while the experience did have elements of a ride - a queue for small boats that guide you through a planned route in a loop, under three large karsts and back to the dock in about an hour or so.  The journey is memorable.  The somewhat narrow, shallow water way is bordered on either side by rice fields and, beyond them, more limestone formations.  It's pretty, verdant scenery.  I understood that those paddling the many boats - sometimes by their feet - are local villagers who, when not paddling around tourists are tending rice and embroidering.

Ninh Binh Local Tours
+84 912 984 935
ninhbinhlocaltours@gmail.com
ninhbinhlocaltours@yahoo.com

For dinner, also at the hotel's recommendation, we went to Chookie's, which we were told was owned by an Aussie and her Vietnamese spouse.  We liked the cheerful vibe of the restaurant, which very much appears to cater to western expats, who seemed to make up the restaurant's entire clientele that evening.  Various quotations extolling the virtues of travel, adventure adorn the neat, well maintained walls.  The restaurant was nice and tidy.  While the menu offered both western and Vietnamese specialties, I found the Vietnamese dishes (bun cha and fried spring rolls) a bit too westernized for my taste. The hamburger was delicious, as were the french fries.  The chickpea burger - not so much.

Chookie's
17 Luong Van Tuy
Ninh Binh
+84 94 834 6026

Some other special places to stay near Ninh Binh include:

Tam Coc Garden

and

Emeralda Resort

Ha Long Bay



This World Heritage Site, about three hours away from Hanoi by car, or a short, 45-minute flight from Hanoi by seaplane, is worth a visit.

We booked with Bhaya Cruises, and were not disappointed.  One of the reasons we chose Bhaya was because of its reputation as being a leader in helping to preserve (or improve) the environmental quality of the bay.  We've also heard good things about Emeraude Cruises, among many other companies from which you can choose.

I'd recommend visiting in the early spring or in the fall, to avoid the sticky heat of late spring or summer.

Our itinerary included a visit to a fishing village, in a small, uncovered boat; and to a large, very popular cave (lots of steps to climb to access the cave, and then hordes of other tourists to maneuver around inside).

It is true what I had heard about how the boats don't really go very far, and cluster around each other.  But there was enough distance between our boat and the others that in the evenings, we could still relax and enjoy conversation on deck, with pleasant breezes, admiring the unusual limestone formations surrounding us.

Hoi An



About a 30-minute car ride from Danang's airport, Hoi An reminds me of Ubud, Bali, in many charming ways.  The center of Hoi An is laid-back, cozy even, with plenty of good restaurants, cafes, and shops to wander among.

Like Ubud, Hoi An is not far from the beach, so you could easily stay at one of the many beachfront properties in Danang, such as the Furama, Hyatt, Pullman, or others, and make a day trip (or day trips) to Hoi An.


On one visit, we stayed at a friendly place in Hoi An, sort of on the periphery of the center of that town.  Alma Courtyard had just opened a few months before, and while they are still getting the staff trained up, there was much that the hotel was already getting right.  The lobby of the spa was perfectly peaceful.  I'm not so much in to spa treatments, and even though I tried a massage that was part of our rate package, I found that just sitting in the lobby was calming.  The rooms were spacious, clean, and soothingly decorated, as was in fact the entire property.  The food and beverage from each of the property's kitchens were delicious and presented well.  Service was friendly and would have been even better if I spoke Vietnamese or if the staff spoke better English.

On another visit, we stayed at the tasteful, luxurious Nam Hai, right on the beach.

Among the restaurants we liked in Hoi An was the Cargo Club.  I have to admit, the hotels were so comfortable that we didn't dine out very much.

Dining virtuously - STREETS, located at 17 Le Loi, is a wonderful restaurant in the heart of Hoi An, offering cheerful, attractive decor, delicious food, and reasonable prices.  And by supporting STREETS, you are contributing to a great cause.  The restaurant is a non-profit organization that aims to teach underprivileged kids skills in hospitality.  Many of the servers and those working in the kitchen are kids from the street who might otherwise not have a way up.  Many of the staff go on to high-end hotels and restaurants, making room for the next cohort.

Hoi An has a reputation for being a great place for tailoring, so my spouse and I set about getting suits made.  There are certainly a number of tailors in town, so perhaps our experience was not indicative of tailoring there in general, but I think we found that as fast a turnaround time as our tailor offered, and as attractive as the price for the suits we ordered was, the quality just wasn't worth it in my view.  I would urge caution.

Enchanting Hue

The ancient imperial capital Hue, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is not to be missed. Vietnam Airlines has direct flights from Hanoi to Hue.  A lovely place to stay there is the Accor-managed La Residence hotel.  The property has the most beautifully presented art deco design I've ever seen.  La Residence is comfortable base from which to explore the complex of Hue monuments, a short drive away from the hotel.

Some photos from our visit:

A gate to the Imperial City

View from the Queen Mother's veranda

Thien Mu Pagoda

An image from the Thien Mu Pagoda complex

An image from the Thien Mu Pagoda complex